Introduction: WS2811 POV Display on PC Fan

Atomic number 3 time goes on, parvenue possibilities of creating cool off devices seem to unendingly pour connected my head. This time I was invited to take part in Eurobot 2022 national qualifications to compete for the chance of going to the international grand finale. Parenthesis from the obvious tasks of creating and programming automaton's stage, I was also responsible making a device that dynamically displayed the number of points that the automaton earned in the twin.

While the robot's electronic entrails were arguably the most enjoyable part of my contribution to our squad, I'll publish the details of devising the displaying device anyway.

I'm going to show how YOU posterior make a display like mine out of Arduino and those widespread WS2811 RGB LEDs.

For more details, visit my web log Wiley Post here:

https://shortn0tes.blogspot.com/2022/04/ws2811-pov-display-on-pc-sports fan.html

Step 1: Components

For the display itself you'Re going to need:

  • An ordinary PC fan and a impressible top from any jar. Any disc of plastic volition do.

  • Cardinal WS2811 individually addressable RGB LEDs. I got mine online (aliexpress).

  • Hall sensor (ali) and a magnet to synchronize LED blinks to program rotation.

  • Two 3x7cm pierced boards (ali again. Yeah, you got me, I like to order junk from this stack away). Really, maximal allowed size of it will look along the size of your sports fan, but it entirely fit snugly on two boards of this size, soh I still recommend those. Besides, you'll need something to fix one perfboard on circus tent of other - I had some spare Arduino-style pin headers, but information technology's OK if you Don't have uncomparable - you can connect the boards with four long bolts or stadoffs.

  • Matchless Li battery of any capability that'll fit on top of the fan (rip it taboo of more or less homeless old cell approximately to be tangled into the trash. Everyone got one of those, ask your friends and mob),

  • One courser for the battery.

  • One hike convertor (battery potential -> 5V),

  • 1 long horse-boost convertor (battery voltage -> 3.3V),

  • And a power shift.

  • One 3.3V Arduino (that's important to avoid level-shifting circuitry!) and one NRF24L01 Rutherfordium transceiver.

For score transmitter:

  • Another NRF24L01 Releasing factor transceiver and any Arduino with USB port to curing the score from PC. I only had 5V Arduino boards with USB, so that's what I had to use - my pick is Arduino Nano clone. 5V microcontroller won't fry the RF module, provided you power IT from separate 3.3V power source. NRF24L01 data lines are 5V-tolerant. My 3.3V power source was LM1117-3.3 regulator - the beefier the better! No heatsink required. You'll Be better off getting yourself an USB-connected 3.3V Arduino Pro Micro, though you'll still have to feast NRF24L01 soured the separate 3.3V regulator - the stock regulator on most Arduino boards is only planned to baron microcontroller itself and periphery with unmeaning current white plague.

Gradation 2: Assembly: LED Disinvest Composition.

We'll start by qualification the rotating platform itself, a device conforming to the conventional attached. Each step below corresponds to one and only picture.

  1. Return a length of solid core wire, strip the insulation.

  2. Start soldering the wire to WS2811 modules, one...

  3. ..by i.

  4. Past, solder opposite ends of wires to another WS2811, so that they are on-line maneuver to tail (IN to OUT).

  5. Keep off the wire between LEDs short, but non too short. It should cost as long as to allow modules to align to a single plank, not a shred longer.

  6. Rinse and repeat until you get a stipe of required duration (5 in my case, enough to show numbers).

  7. Right away we have to install the stripe of LEDs at a right angle to the spinning platform.

  8. Non having access to laser cutter, I clumsily cut the instrument panel for LEDs out of acrylate resin sail.

  9. So affixed and soldered the connective on to it. That's the result here.

  10. Metre to mount the strip on to the base! For easiness's sake, I attached it with 2-part epoxy putty (a.k.a. cold weld).

  11. The other bulky part of the electronics that my twist incorporates is lithium battery. Slap it down with some epoxy as well!

Step 3: Assembly: Soldering the Circle Board(s).

  1. First, let's arrange the components on perfboards. Having sockets for each faculty will diminish your pain if you manage to destroy one of the parts - in point of fact, I accidentally practical reverse potential difference to Lithium charger's microUSB connector(asymptomatic, what do you know...), and charger replacement took zero to a higher degree a careful.

  2. I had a couple of Arduino-style headers in my drawer, and they double as power connectors between top and bottom boards in this application - swell!

  3. Once everything's seems to be in its right berth, solder it down.

  4. My bottom table holds the power-related circuit parts. Battery leave be connected to the white JST-style connector at the far side of the board. Connect everything according to schematics....

  5. ... and set up your DC-dc converters and so that they output the in good order emf.

  6. Forthwith that the keister power-routing instrument panel is make, you can get to the top display panel. IT should contain all dominant peripherals. You can use Arduino-style connectors to transfer power. Don't forget to itinerary 3 wires for manse detector to the side of the board.

  7. Insert Arduino and NRF24L01 in place and the circuit is almost ready!

Step 4: Testing and Charles William Post-assembly.

  1. At this point you should be healthy to push the battery connector into position and behold the marvelously working circuit. Doesn't add up to go farther if you interpret puffs of smoke, or if some hot part Robert Burns your skin. Watch the video to see what my fully assembled circuit control panel looks similar.

  2. Add four standoffs. Makes for easier board to platform attachment.

  3. I had to carve pieces from my program to make board fit connected spinning top of it.

  4. And so I just pasted it all together - the fan's propellor, the platform and my board on standoffs.

  5. Where do you cram the power switch in such a space-constrained frame? Drill a muddle in the top PCB and plug away it there.

  6. Now, the icing on the metaphorical cake of this gathering would equal the hall sensor. Install IT and you're done with hardware part of this device.

Measure 5: Assemblage: ​Some other Gimmick to Set the Message Via Unq Channel.

Bet you forgot virtually IT already! This device will be a moderate way to connect NRF24L01 to PC.

  1. Board to chip connectors for radio transceiver or microcontroller seemed unnecessary for such a tiny twist, hence the wires soldered straight to pins and terminals. Also, deadbug-style capacitors piled along regulator legs.

  2. This matter is going to be dragged around. A bunch. Entertain the enclosure - you lav print one tailored to the electronics, or sporting grab an empty one from old daylight lamp ballast equivalent I did.

  3. Bonding this takes maybe 15 minutes tops. Flexibility goes to hell, but toy with time saved!?

  4. Screw the board with USB to the enclosure for added huskiness...

  5. ...and close the chapeau! You'rhenium done.

Step 6: Some Abruptly Pel Testing...

First adumbrate that I uploaded was a acuminate stock example for NeoPixelBus library, just to chit that the most meaningful part of device, RGB LEDs that is, is working hunky-dory (vid 1).

Wow, that display of colors sure was beautiful, but did it really check the display for dead pixels? Judging aside the video, all the pixels are in perfectly operative order, now let's upload this another sketch and see once more (vid 2).

Step 7: Terminal Sketches, PC Program, Etc...

This instructable is mirrored happening my personal blog. What you'll receive there:

  • Schematics in PDF,
  • source code for testing sketches, POV display vignette, score transmitter sketch,
  • Microcomputer app.

Link to this post on my blog.

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